DAY 46


WE TAKE A DENSHA RIDE TO MIYAJIMA

22.01.2025

I have been on this densha to Hiroshima many times, but this time we are not going as far as Hiroshima. This time we will be stopping at Miyajima Guchi. Miyajima Guchi means the mouth or entrance to Miyajima and Miyajima is an island not far off shore from the station. It is only a short walk from the station to the ferry terminus, from where we will take a short ride on the ferry to the island of Miyajima.

 

I think you all would love to visit this beautiful place. Wild deer roam the streets but unlike Nana… I mean Nara*, they do not try to get food from tourists. There are strictly ‘No Feeding the Deer’ rules in place and because most people visiting this island are Japanese, the ‘rules are rules’ and therefore no one breaks them. It is wonderful to see the deer walking alongside you through the main streets of the town without being hassled.

Although officially called Itsukushima, the island is more commonly known as Miyajima, which means “shrine island” in Japanese. This name reflects the island’s deep connection to both its Buddhist religion and its famous Itsukushima Shrine, where the main buildings, like the iconic torii gate, are built over the water. 

We once stayed overnight ,with the whole family, at an Airbnb in Miyajima. While the island can be bustling with tourists during the day, it transforms into a peaceful haven in the evening and early morning, the area becomes much quieter and more peaceful. It was nice to enjoy the island without hordes of people. If you visit Japan, consider staying overnight at Miyajima, you certainly will not regret it. 

I am writing this on the train to Miyajima. In between paragraphs I have been walking up to the train driver’s cabin and taking videos of the trip. It is fascinating to watch the scenery fly past and the protocols the driver has to go through before leaving or arriving at a station or level crossing. 

We Have just swapped trains. The first train had two people in the cab. One was overseeing a new driver’s performance and was writing on a clipboard as we progressed. The second train is doing the same so it may be the final test of their traineeship to be a driver with JR. If they are both trainees, they certainly would get a pass from me. They were both very good.

You would never guess where I am writing from now! No ideas? Well, we are on the Miyajima Island having been dropped off here after a 5 minute trip on the ferry. I am writing the blog in my favourite cafe in Miyajima.It caters to all my needs which are:

  • ICE-CREAM.      Here I get two separate flavours, coffee and vanilla in a huge soft serve icecream cone! Brilliant!! 
  1. COFFEE.   Coffee in this cafe is as good as anywhere in Australia. The latte I had was perfect! Couldn’t be happier.
  2. PEOPLE WATCHING. I am eating ice-cream, drinking coffee and writing this blog from the upstairs floor of the cafe, overlooking the main street. Glance up from the laptop for a quick glance and wonder what the story is behind the people who pass below me on the street. Good fun.
  3. GOOD NON_INTRUSIVE MUSIC. The cafe has good Jazz music playing. It can be heard but is not intrusive to conversation. Creates a good vibe.

Miyajima is also famous for ‘Tabe Aruki’, Eat and Walk. How very un-Japanese! There are many food stalls and people are enojoying some Hiroshima cusine such as oysters, anago (conger eel) and maple shaped cake with sweet red bean inside. We are not a big fan of those things but, as you guessed it, Nana did the honors of trying them all. Well done whale shark!!

I hope Mami and Nana had as good a day as me. I feel really relaxed and have enjoyed the whole day from the minute we got on the first train. Although the skies were a bit cloudy, the day was not cold and we were very comfortable walking around the shrine and main shopping and cafe area on Miyajima. 

Apparently we were not supposed to pat the deer, which makes me a lawbreaker, as I did pat the ones who came up to me. They are so cute and have such big beautiful eyes that I couldn’t help but pat them.

We are on the last train for the day and will soon be  at Kushigahama Station where Youko will be waiting in the car ready to take us home, after this thoroughly enjoyable day. So unless something brilliant happens when we gett home, I will finish today’s blog as we are lulled by the gentle rocking of the densha carriage which has already worked its magic on Nana who is asleep.

* Nara is a town where deer also roam wild around the town and shrines. Unlike Miyajima however, people can even buy food to feed the deer in Nara. This is a real nuisance as the deer expect to be fed and it’s not unusual to find deer putting their snout quite aggresively into your pockets trying to get to food. Feeding the deer may be fun to start with but in the end it is a bit annoying.